Ep2 - Recycled Hardwood Picture Frames
In this episode, Dale creates two small picture frames from recycled hardwood. The hardwood he has chosen is quite old, naturally weathered and full of character. It’s this character that he doesn’t want to lose in the process.
He utilises quite a few of the new tools that he picked up after his recent visit to Carbatec:
- Carbatec Benchtop Jointer & Thicknesser to flatten the boards
- Kreg Router Table with Triton Router, along with a couple CMT Router Bits for creating the rebate (or recess) in the back, and also for adding a front detail
- SawStop Jobsite Saw for cutting the board to length, and cutting the mitre corners
- Kreg 320 Pocket Hole Jig & a few Kreg Pocket Hole Screws for the frames joint
- A few Wolfcraft quick action clamps
- Bora centipede portable work stand, along with the Bora work top
- and of course, the Carbatec 1HP dust collector to keep the workshop clean.
Other consumables that were used were:
- 2.4m of recycled hardwood (try a local demo or salvage yard)
- A basic picture hanging kit with hooks & wire etc, to hang the pictures (most local hardware stores will have these)
- Small thin acrylic or Perspex to protect the pictures (again, your local hardware or you can get glass cut to size by a glazier)
- A few sheets of fine sandpaper
- Whittles Hard Wax Oil to enhance grain and protect the timber
When selecting recycled timber first make sure that it is stable (not excessively cracked/split). Avoid anything that has lead paint (there are test kits available from paint stores). The toxic dust created when machining lead paint can cause some very serious and life-threatening side effects. If in doubt, don’t use it! Also remember to select boards that are long enough to make four sides for your frames, taking into account the waste that you may lose from removing parts of the board you don’t want to use, and also the waste cuts made producing your mitre corners.
Your frame size will depend on what it is that you wish to frame, remembering that you can make a frame larger, and adjust the backing mat to suit a smaller framed item.
- Using the Jointer, select & then machine the wide back of the boards to form the flat back of the frame
- Select one edge to be used as the outside (which was left in its natural weather state)
- Ensure jointer fence is set to 90deg to the cutterhead
- Placing the newly flattened wide face side on, against the jointer fence (with desired outside edge facing up), machine the INSIDE edge so it is perfectly square to the back.
- Use the Thicknesser to machine the top face (so machined wide face, facing down) so it is parallel (or flat) to the back face. It is this process that will determine how rustic your end product will be, so go slow with multiple light passes through the Thicknesser.
- Use a straight cutter in the Router to rebate the back of the frames for the picture and glass/Perspex.. This may require several shallow passes.
- If desired, use a shaped, straight or bevel router bit to add extra detail to the inside or outside exposed edges of the boards.
- Mark and mitre cut all pieces to desired lengths. Be careful to orient the boards to ensure that the rebate cut is always facing the inside of the frame. Mark the back of the boards as required.
- Test fit all corners and check mitres. Some light sanding to clean up joints may be required.
- Mark the back of each matched joint pair.
- Using the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig, measure the thickness of the frame board, and set up the jig as per its instructions.
- Drill pocket hole joints into one side only of each joint. Take care to keep the joints as close as possible to the inside of the frame to ensure the screws do not break out of the corners.
- Lay the frame components face down on a flat surface, and clamp the first joint down to prevent separation.
- Screw joint together using the Kreg Pocket Hole Screw selected for your thickness of timber. Continue to clamp & screw each joint paying special attention to the final connection, which may need extra clamping to ensure a straight and positive connection.
- With the frame construction completed, lightly sand, dust well and finish the frame with your desired product. Dale used Whittles Hard Wax Oil for enhanced wood grain and a satin/matt finish.
- Frames can now have glass or perspex cut, along with any required matt board etc, depending on your planned use.
- Final picture hanging and mounting (following the mounting kit instructions) can be undertaken. Alternatively, a small angled wedge or even a dowel could be mounted on the back of the frames, to make them free-standing.
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